Thread Talk

July 8, 2025

I don't know about you but I confess I find all the different thread types and weights confusing. There seems to be more thread than you can possibly find uses for, lol. Cotton, Polyester, Rayon, Silk, Linen, Topstitch, Jean, All Purpose, Extra Fine, Quilting, Metallic, Poly/Cotton..........and on and on.

I know that most quilters have a brand preference and they tend to stick to what they like. Sometimes it's just the thread itself they like and sometimes it's the thread their machine likes. I personally tend to stick to the same two or three types and don't seem to vary a whole lot.

We've all talked about "thread weight" but when I started reading I was surprised to find out exactly what that means. Of course, I had a basic understanding of what it was but was surprised by the actual definition. Thread weight is actually a length measurement. So for example: a 60 wt thread would take 60 kms of that thread to weigh 1 kg, a 40 wt thread would need 40 kilometers of that particular thread to weigh 1 kg, and so on. So it makes perfect sense that a thicker thread would need less distance to measure a kg of weight than a thinner thread would.

*As quilters I'm sure you have all heard the debate about polyester thread vs cotton thread. Many people feel the thread they use should match the fabric they are using and will only use 100% cotton thread for piecing their quilts. That train of thought is considered outdated by many and they feel polyester thread has come a long way from the first polyester threads made many years ago and are much improved and won't damage the cotton fibers. Cotton thread doesn't stretch which can result in more breakage if stretched or tugged on. It can withstand high temperatures from ironing and steaming without melting. It is a more sustainable option and is a natural substance not a synthetic. It also has a tendency to blend into the fabric more with it's matte finish and doesn't have the "sheen" that most polyester threads do. Cotton thread more readily accepts dye. If you have issues with your cotton thread shredding try a needle with a larger eye. Typically cotton thread is used for garments and quilts in both machine and hand sewing.

*Polyester thread is more colorfast and has less lint which is a nice bonus for your sewing machine. It's a good choice for quilts that will get a lot of use and stands up well to the wear and tear of frequent washing. Polyester thread can also retain it's strength even with very fine weights, making it a popular choice for EPP. Because it has more of a silky feel you may find a thread net helpful. Polyester is used for embroidery and decorative stitching, but has become more widely accepted as a piecing and quilting thread.

*For applique you can use cotton, polyester, silk, rayon and even an monofilament thread. Thread comes in so many colors that you will be able to find something that matches any shade of fabric. If you prefer not to see your stitches at all, then a monofilament thread is the answer. Some monofilament threads are difficult to work with and may require a special needle. Remember they can be prone to melting so a light hand with ironing is necessary. On a safety note, it is not recommended for baby quilts, if the threads do come undone they aren't easily seen and can tangle around little fingers or toes. Sunlight can also degrade some monofilament threads. The few times I've appliqued with a monofilament thread I've used Monopoly from Superior and didn't need to use a specialty needle. One thing to remember is not to use it in your bobbin, just use a regular quilting thread in your bobbin. It comes in a clear color or a smokey color which works well with darker fabrics. It can be very slippery to work with so you will definitely want to use a net with it. It can also be difficult to knot so may be more prone to coming undone.

*Metallic threads have become very popular in recent years and can elevate a project but they can also be a little tricky to use. If sewing by hand, use shorter lengths to prevent breakage and a thread conditioner may help as well as using a needle with a larger eye. With machine use it's important to slow down your speed, use an appropriate needle, adjust your tension and use a finer weight bobbin thread. It's also a good idea to use a stabilizer when working with a heavier thread like this to prevent puckering. You may also find you have to clean your machine a bit more frequently as the metallic fibers tend to "shed" a bit more debris.

*Quilting threads are made to make the job a little easier. Coatings on the thread make it pull through the fabric easier to reduce stress on your hands. It also helps the thread resist tangling which can be very annoying. They are often thicker giving more definition to your stitching. And obviously they are a bit stronger to reduce breakage. "Big Stitch" quilting has become very popular in recent years and a much heavier thread is often used for this technique such as an 8 or 12 wt perle cotton.

This has motivated me to add one more thing to my quilty bucket list........I have hand quilted for years but never tried the big stitch technique. I guess that means I will have to buy some perle cotton!

Do you always use the same thread or do you experiment and try different types?

Twila

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